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    天鵝絨的由來 The origin of velvet

    發布時間:2023-03-09      點擊次數:104

    天鵝絨是以絨經在織物表面構成絨圈或絨毛的絲織物名。又稱漳絨,因起源于中國福建省漳州地區而得名。明代已有大量生產,它是中國傳統織物之一。有花、素兩類,如北京明定陵出土的雙面天鵝絨四合如意繡龍補女衣、藍色單面天鵝絨女衣。

    漳絨自明代傳到南京江寧織造府后,發展成南京獨有的雕花天鵝絨。 雕花天鵝絨的制造工藝極其復雜精細:由兩組經線和兩組緯線交織而成,色彩以紫紅、墨綠、朱紅、蟹青、古銅色為多,雕花絨的傳統紋樣有鳳戲牡丹、五福捧壽、梅蘭竹菊、三多、八仙等。 天鵝絨可用于制做服裝、帽子、絲織天鵝絨毯和裝飾物。2007年天鵝絨織造技藝又成功被列入《江蘇省非物質文化遺產名錄》。 南京漢唐織錦研究所所長殷志聰、丹陽春明漳絨廠廠長戴春明成為天鵝絨織造技藝代表性傳承人。

    Velvet is the name of a silk fabric with a velvet warp forming a ring or pile on the surface of a fabric. Also known as Zhangjiang, because it originated in Zhangzhou, Fujian Province, China, so named. It has been produced in large quantities in Ming Dynasty. It is one of the traditional Chinese fabrics. There are two types of flower and plain, such as double-sided velvet four-fit Ruyi embroidered dragon Bubu women's clothes unearthed from Ming Dingling Tomb in Beijing, and blue single-sided velvet women's clothes.

    Zhangjiang velvet since the Ming Dynasty spread to Nanjing Jiangning weaving house after the development of Nanjing's unique carved velvet. The manufacturing process of carved velvet is extremely complex and fine: it is composed of two groups of warp threads and two groups of weft threads. The colors are purple red, dark green, vermilion, crab green and bronze. The traditional patterns of carved velvet include phoenix play peony, five fortunes holding longevity, plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum, Sanduo and eight immaculates. Velvet can be used to make clothes, hats, velvet blankets and ornaments. In 2007, the velvet weaving technique was successfully listed in the Intangible Cultural Heritage List of Jiangsu Province. Yin Zhicong, director of Nanjing Han-Tang Brocade Research Institute, and Dai Chunming, director of Danyang Chunming Zhangxi Factory, became representative inheritors of velvet weaving skills.


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